Turkey, Thoda Hatke!

A much overdue international vacation had been weighing on our minds. And then lo and behold! Guru, the planet of travel and exploration finally aligned in our astro charts and proclaimed, “Awasares, ho ja shuru!”. Thus, began our plans for an international vacation in 2024. Jokes aside, though many mini holidays in India had happened regularly, an international vacation fructified for us after a drought of eight long years. As if a divine intervention was much required.

While ‘A’ prefers to travel back in time (read, historical places), I love traveling – period! Turkey was always on our radar along with a few other destinations and when Khaki Tours announced their Turkey trip, we totally “tripped”! We said, this is it! I firmly believe that one does not choose a destination. The destination chooses you! So, among all the shortlisted destinations, Turkey chose us!

Having visited Greece in 2016, Turkey seemed like a perfect follow-through. Joined at the hip, these two countries have a shared history and culture, and yet both are interesting and distinctive in their own ways. The Yin and the Yang of the Mediterranean region!

The web has spawned reams of pages promoting Turkey as a popular holiday destination. After all, it features in the top ten countries visited by tourists globally. Also, many I know have ticked it off their bucket list long before we landed in Istanbul. With so much already out there and experienced, what could one possibly dish out on Turkey without making anyone feel stuffed like one (pun intended). Hence, “Turkey, Thoda Hatke”, is my humble attempt to bring to light the country’s less experienced side (or so I presume) that we enjoyed and also that is scarcely meta-tagged. Whether or not you have been there and done that, I am hoping this will interest you - Now or in the future!

This is a list of must-visit and must-experience items based on our memorable 12-day holiday with Khaki Tours. Quite frankly, an A-to-Z list would be foolish for me to attempt with just one Turkey visa stamp on my passport. However, this short list can be a good starting point.

Here we go!!!

MUST VISIT PLACES

A for Assos

I must say that the Temple of Athena resting high on top of a hill in Assos village is the best-kept secret of the calm Aegean Sea. A winding stone-cobbled path through a quaint Greek-looking village took the wind out of us as we huffed our way to the top. But believe me, it was worth every single mg of calorie that was lost in that little village. When we finally reached the summit, right below our feet stood the hallowed grounds belonging to the wisest. Aristotle is said to have taught his disciples here in 350 BC. What welcomed us were the remains of the doric columns standing stoically for over two thousand years. If only they could talk! 

On the other hand, the feisty winds on the hilltop were not so welcoming. They were literally blowing us away and throwing us off the ground as if to say, “Shoo, get going, you don’t belong here!”.
As we maneuvered the heckling winds, the sight of the serene expanse of turquoise blue Aegean Sea down below calmed our nerves instantly. Those breathtaking views will remain etched in my memories. Not on the typical tourist map, the ancient ruins dated 6th century BC are a must-visit if passing through Behramkale. Only on our way down, did we grasp the true charm of the Assos village that we missed while catching our breath on the way up. Many small handicraft shops selling delicate crochet work, dried herbs and spices and souvenirs dotted the path. Most run by old frail women of Assos village, the shops, unfortunately, wore a deserted look (possibly it was off-season). Stooped with age, they appeared to carry the weight of the village’s economy on their dainty backs.

Tip: What we got from the shops were coarsely cut large chunks of olive oil soaps that are popular even among the locals. Some of us also bought local handmade trinkets and bracelets as souvenirs.

Temple of Athena, Assos

(Pic Courtesy: Rishabh Shukla)

B for Basilica Cistern

Though a popular inclusion in the itinerary of every tourist to Istanbul, I am including this beauty here only to reinforce the fact that this experience should not be missed for anything! A magical place, a stunning splendor, an architecture marvel, a historic gem, and a photographer’s delight all rolled into one. Along with the Hagia (Aya) Sofia, Emperor Justinian I from the Byzantine era is credited for this engineering feat built in the 6th century during his reign. The grandness and aura of this place are overwhelming. I could not believe my ears when the guide remarked that this magnificent system was created 1500 years ago. The cistern that could store 80,000 cubic meters of water was built to provide water to the entire city of Istanbul, which was then known as Constantinople. The cistern is supported by 336 columns each one unique though they appear similar in height. Each of these columns was salvaged from ruined buildings and is thought to have been brought from various parts of the Byzantine Empire. The cistern was forgotten for centuries and was rediscovered by chance in the 16th century when a Dutch traveler noticed locals retrieving water from a hole in their basement floor.

Tip: As you walk down the steps to enter the cistern, you will be engulfed with humidity and warmth. Some may find the ambiance spooky too! But don’t be spooked! In fact, the atmosphere will grow on you, and at the end, you will feel sad that the tour is over.
By the way, the movie “Inferno” was shot here for its climax scene.

C for Cleopatra's Antique Pool

Situated near the white travertine pools of Pamukkale, tourists are known to make a beeline to bathe in “Queen Bee’s Antique pool”. You read it right! Legend says this thermal pool was once used by Egyptian Queen Cleopatra for a dip to relax herself from the tiredness of long travel.

Whether it is for Dawa or Queen’s Dua we don’t know but as expected the pool had in it many Deewanas (including yours truly). This unique and magnificent location is apparently fed by the same hot springs that are found in the Hierapolis region. As we took a dip and swam in the medicinal waters, we could not help but notice the rising glow on our faces (or so I think). We don’t know if the radiance was the result of our body experiencing the warmth of thermal springs in the cool climes or the surreal joy of knowing that the famous beauty queen once bathed in the same waters centuries ago or just a psychosomatic effect. Whatever it was, for this water baby, soaking in these historical mineral waters was a blissful experience. Today, this place is run like a professional spa that allows you to enjoy these antique therapeutic waters with all modern facilities.

Cleopatra's Antique Pool

(Pic Courtesy: Expedia.com)

Tip: Be careful while wading through the pool. Walking on the floor bed of the pool your feet will meet stones and pebbles of all shapes and sizes settled at the bottom. Be ready to be surprised!
For safety purposes, deeper sides are clearly demarcated to warn the non-swimmers.

G for Gallipoli

Visiting this place literally gave me goosebumps and filled me with pride, especially after knowing the story of the forgotten Indian soldiers of Gallipoli.
Battle of Gallipoli is that infamous military event that resulted in the downfall of Winston Churchill and also the emergence of the Turkish military hero, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.
The Battle of Gallipoli also called the Dardanelles Campaign (1915-16) was an unsuccessful attempt by the Allied Powers to control the sea route from Europe to Russia during World War I.
Along with British troops, there were soldiers from Australia, New Zealand, Ireland, France including India. Considered to be one of the bloodiest battles of World War I it witnessed the death of tens of thousands of soldiers on both sides. There has been an ANZAC memorial built on the Gallipoli peninsula to pay respects to the soldiers from Australia and NZ who laid down their lives but for the longest time, the contribution of Indian soldiers was completely forgotten or erased. At least 1500 Indian soldiers who fought the battle lost their lives along with the ANZACs. Though today the proof of their sacrifice and bravery is carved into the Helles war memorial, their contribution is often conspicuously absent from many history books.

Helles Memorial at the tip of Gallipoli Peninsula

Names of Indian Soldiers at the Helles Memorial

Additionally, we also visited the ANZAC Cove cemetery located on a beach which is also a picturesque location. There are around 252 Commonwealth servicemen of the First World War buried or commemorated in this cemetery including the names of three Indian Muslim soldiers as well.

ANZAC Cove memorial

Tip: As you walk along the periphery of the Helles War Memorial do try to read the names of the soldiers etched on the side walls. You will stumble on the names of Indian soldiers belonging to the Gorkha and Punjab regiments commemorated for posterity. An unlikely place to feel a sense of national pride as you read the Indian soldier’s names in a foreign land.

Also, don’t miss the famous heart-rending and inspiring words attributed to Mustafa Kemal Ataturk etched on a wall at Gallipoli Peninsula - “Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives ... You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore, rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours ... You, the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.”

Famous words by Kamal Ataturk at ANZAC Cove

I for Ilhara Valley

No one can resist the lure of a trek through the magical Ilhara Valley. Even the laziest can give in to its surreal beauty. It was an enchanting five-kilometer leisurely walk passing through the woods with lovely greens, gurgling rivulets, cooing birds, and fleeting butterflies as a company. This is one trek you will wish never ends as walking through the peaceful Ilhara Valley is akin to going on a pilgrimage or a soulful journey.

The valley is a deep river canyon in Western Cappadocia with lush vegetation, cave churches, and towering cliff faces, a visual experience one should not miss.
It is so pristine and picturesque that at the end, one of our friends in the group jokingly remarked that Ilhara Valley cannot qualify as a “trek” for us Indians. After all, we could not find a single gutkha packet or empty rum bottle lying around anywhere on our walk.

Enjoying the views of Ilhara Valley

(Pic Courtesy: Rishabh Shukla)

K for Kaymakli Cave City

Cappadocia’s landscape is generous in every sense. It has a lot to offer for tourists. Not surprisingly, Cappadocia is invariably packaged with Istanbul in travel itineraries though it is a flight away. Not just its length and breadth but it offers you thrilling heights of excitement with the hot air balloon ride and gorgeous Goreme Open Air Museum on one end and at the other end breath-taking depths of cave cities that are almost 80 meters deep - that’s like buildings with 20 floors below the earth’s surface.

Kaymakli Underground City was the only place I was anxious to visit much before the holiday travel began. Since I have claustrophobia, crawling through narrow tunnels is not my idea of fun. However, once the guide shared with the group that the underground cave city has options to exit the cave if one feels anxious and unsettled, I felt a bit relieved. I changed my mind and bravely decided to give it a go. And boy, am I glad I went for it. It was an experience I will not forget easily.
Built at eight levels below the ground level, the tour is available only till level four for tourists. Believe me, I had it by level two itself. Not just me but all others in the group too. So, you can imagine! Crawling on bended knees, through confined tunnels and low ceilings, the cave city carved out of soft volcanic rock is overwhelming. The Phrygians, a civilization that flourished in central Anatolia from 1200-700 BC, are credited with building the Kaymakli Underground City. Later the Christians used it as a haven to hide and protect themselves from Romans (Pagans) in 3 CE and later from Arabs in 7-8 CE to avoid persecution. Besides human life, the city was also used to safeguard cattle and stockpile food and water supplies. At level one it would have the stables, level two was usually the place of worship or Church, at level three there were storage spaces and kitchens and at level four they would keep huge earthenware jars and abundant storage places. At any given time, at least 3500 people used to live in Kaymakli underground city. It is a mind-blowing experience that should not be missed while in Cappadocia! Even if you have claustrophobia (like me).

Tip: As we were exiting the cave city, there were serpentine queues of tourists wanting to get in at peak time. Thank God, the folks at Khaki Tours pre-empted this scenario and hence scheduled our visit early in the day and not during peak time. Imagine a traffic jam of people in those narrow spaces. I just shudder to think about it!

Crawling through Kaymakli Underground city like termites in an anthill

S for Streets of Karakoy, Istiklal Avenue, Nisantasi

The best way to explore Istanbul is on foot! There is so much going on the streets of Istanbul that you can spend an entire day from brunch to dinner and yet there would be more to discover. Full of historical and cultural experiences, they have a charming beauty and elegance that’s unique to the city. On one end you will find a historic heritage tram trudging along and on the other, you will find high fashion labels in exclusive galleries. For those who enjoy a good evening/nightlife, you will find the best bars in Istanbul and also many beautiful restaurants and cafes, hosting many different Turkish food or other cuisines. Interestingly, each street has its own charm and personality distinct from the other. You cannot just visit one. You have to visit all the streets to get a “taste” of what Istanbul has to offer. Karakoy, Istiklal Avenue, and Nisantasi are just a few streets we visited. There are many more in Istanbul that are worth visiting.

Streets of Karakoy

The above is a video of the fans of the Galata Serai football team celebrations as they romp through Istiklal Avenue post a grand win.

MUST EAT/DRINK/EXPERIENCE

A for Ayran
If you are a Chhaas or butter milk person then you will love Ayran! This drink makes for a perfect healthy accompaniment during meals. With a hint of salt already added to it, you will enjoy this drink whether it is homemade or a branded off-the-shelf product. We loved both versions. Make sure you include this in your meals.
Tip: If flying Turkish Airlines, ask the air hostess if it is part of the drink’s menu. If yes, go grab it before they run out of it! If you are late in asking, highly probable the air hostess will come back and say, “Sorry, Ay ran out of it!”.

C for Corba

Apparently, soups have held an important place in traditional Turkish cuisine for centuries. The Turkish word for soup, çorba, is derived from the Persian šurbâ, a combination of the two words’ salty’ and ‘love’. The Turkish Red Lentil soup known as Mercimek Çorbası locally, is the most common “Corba” found in restaurant menus. Pronounced as Chorba, it is quite similar to the word Shorba we use for the soups in Mughlai cuisine. The red lentil soup not only works as a great comfort food but is satisfying and a nutritious appetizer. It cleverly combines rudimentary veggies like onion, carrots, and potatoes with red lentils and swirls up a homey surprise that tastes like comfort food. Akin to our very own Varan Bhaat (lentil rice) drizzled with homemade tup (ghee)!
Tip: As a vegetarian, it was my go-to soup for many of my meals and sometimes at breakfast too (with bread and Turkish string cheese).

The Red Lentil Soup

(Pic Courtesy: Rishabh Shukla)

D for Dondurma

Ice cream in Turkey is Dondurma. “No one can eat just one!”, is a phrase coined probably to describe the irresistible Dondurma. Richer, milkier, and with a lip-smacking taste, Turkish Dondurma can test the self-control of the most strong-willed person.

One can find Dondurma, all across the country sold at baklava shops, street vendors, and restaurants as if they are testing your willpower. It is available in a variety of flavors. But my favorite one remained the Pistachio. Even the Wall’s ice cream is so much more creamy and tastier here than what we get in India. [Try the Blue Berries Wall’s ice cream – it is enticing!]

And then there is Maras Dondurma, an ice cream with a unique taste and texture that needs to be acquired. But I will also add that you must try it at least once while you are here. This traditional Turkish ice cream is sweet, creamy, stretchy, and slightly chewy at the same time. Apparently, the chewiness of the ice cream comes from the goat’s milk and an ingredient called salep (starchy root of wild orchids endemic to the region).

Tip: You will get better quality Dondurma from outlets viz. Gulluoglu (Karakoy) and Mado (chain). Gulluoglu is also known for the best Baclavas in Istanbul.
Avoid the fellows in traditional outfits banging their ladles aggressively on the metal pots luring you to make a fool out of you. Unless you just want to get teased and taunted for a scoop of Turkish Ice cream that’s sub-par in taste and quality. 

Best Dondurma at the legendary Gulluoglu in Karakoy

G for Gozleme

A sure-fire recipe to stop your craving for Indian food (if at all) while in Turkey. Have the Gozleme! The crispy, golden Turkish flatbreads are stuffed with all sorts of tasty fillings that look and taste like our warm flaky buttery parathas. Just like parathas come in various fillings, these too have multiple options. You can choose from Spinach and Feta, Potato and Feta, or spiced red meat. Whichever way you prefer them, I am sure, your longing for Indian food will quickly disappear like the fresh servings of hot Gozlemes will vanish from your plate.

Tip: The one with yellow cheese (Kaseri) goes well with soups and gives you a dal paratha-like taste.

The scrumptious Gozleme

(Pic Courtesy: Rishabh Shukla)

K for Kumpir

Kumpir is to the streets of Turkey like Vada Pav is to the streets of Mumbai. As simple as that. One of the most popular streetside food in Turkey it can be served with a variety of toppings and combinations. It is commonly sold by street vendors and small shops and its popularity lies in its rich flavors and the ability to be customized.
For this dish, huge potatoes are baked in the oven, split open, and the fluffy flesh of the jacket potato is mixed with butter, salt, and a Turkish cheese similar to mozzarella. The potato is then loaded with an array of toppings that include olives, pickles, sweetcorn, Russian salad, pickled cabbage, beets, mushrooms, and coleslaw. You can have the non-vegetarian version by adding sausages too.

Turkish Kumpir is a versatile dish originally from former Yugoslavia. But today the Turks have made it uniquely their own by introducing an array of diverse fillings and toppings.
“Yeh nahi khaya to kya khaya!” Truly, we stuffed ourselves with Kumpir on many occasions, and that probably helped us gain back all the weight we had lost by walking the many streets of Istanbul.

Kumpir, a meal by itself

Kumpir in the background with a huge Mezze platter upfront

With that, we come to the end of “Turkey Thoda Hatke”, a travelogue inspired by the “Turkey Unveiled” tour meticulously organized by the Khaki Team. They truly know how to Keep Heritage Alive and Kicking Internationally too!
In addition to the above, there is so much more that we experienced.

The historic Ephesus. The fascinating Fairy Chimneys. The iconic Mevlana Museum of Rumi. The travertines of Pamukkale. The heady hot air balloon ride. Remarkable Hierapolis, Quietly Brilliant House of Virgin Mary. Buzzing alleys of Grand Bazaar and Egyptian Bazaar, Mulla Nasruddin’s tomb, World-famous duo Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. The majestic Dolmabahce Palace and more. But quite frankly, they have all been written about generously. “Turkey Thoda Hatke” is a tribute to those interesting experiences and places that usually don’t get talked about as much as they deserve.
Thanks to Khaki Tours, A and I have created many beautiful memories of Turkey and more importantly with like-minded travellers who have become our friends for life!

Quick Bonus Tips:

Best time to visit: April to June and Sept/Oct as the crowds are less and weather is also suitable
Currency: The Euro is largely accepted. However, carry a few Liras as they may be required for using loos (mostly clean) in public places or local street shopping. Usually, 5 to 10 Liras are charged per person for using the public loos.
Conversion: Get the foreign currency in exchange shops located in public or busy marketplaces if possible. For instance, we got the best rate in the Grand Bazaar area in Istanbul.
Airlines: Don’t delay booking your flight tickets once the destination is decided. Book at least two months in advance to get good prices. They can easily double as you get closer to the travel date. Preferably book Turkish Airlines (and not Indigo) if you have a choice.
Street shopping: If you like something buy it but only after healthy negotiation. The street shops are open to bargaining. Also, quite used to it.
Tour operator: If you love history, having new experiences, experimenting with local cuisine, staying in comfortable and city center hotels, listening to stories of the place from a trusted guide, and traveling with like-minded travelers, look no further than Khaki Tours. They really ensure you have a good time!

Some more photos of our Turkey holiday that made it special!

Hotel at Kusadasi with a view like this!

Exploring Cappadocia's unique landscape

Sauntering through the streets of Karakoy

Sitting at the Sultanat Gates of Dolmabahce Palace. 

Galata Tower Area, another great area to walk around

Celebrating our successful landing after an exhilarating Hot Air Balloon Ride

(Pic Courtesy: Akriti Chandervanshi)

We needed this after exploring the historical city of Ephesus. A relaxed evening!

Goreme Open Air Museum at Cappadocia

Posing by the gates of the majestic Dolmabahce Palace

That's the beauty that got us back on the ground, safe and sound!

(Pic Courtesy: Rohan Sharma)

Finally, the Turkey Gang!!!

Soaked in History | Banganga Parikrama Walk

 I was one of the 20-odd history/culture buffs who joined the Banganga Parikrama Walk by Khaki Tours. Soaked in many ways was I in this Parikrama on a warm and humid Sunday evening.

Soaked with absorbing stories. Soaked in Mumbai sweat. Soaked in the holy Ganga water (well, feet and hands only).

I am sure not many people are aware that Banganga is the oldest continuously inhabited settlement.

Steeped in many such interesting facts, absorbing stories, legends, and fascinating history, this was a place I had been dying to visit (pun not intended) for a long time.

Banganga at Walkeshwar - Built in 1127 CE by Laxman Prabhu a minister during the Shilahara dynasty was renovated in the 1700s by a wealthy GSB Rama Kamat. The Banganga precinct continues to be under the GSB Temple Trust even today. Hearing this the GSB pride in me was quite stoked. It is believed that some families have been staying here for as long as 15 generations. With a Grade I heritage status this place is a treasure trove within its by-lanes and gullies.

The sacred tank gained religious importance thanks to a mythological story. Legends say that Rama and Lakshman on their way to Lanka in search of Sita made their pit stop here to pray to Lord Shiva. Ram created a Shiva linga from sand, which came to be known as Valuka Ishwar (meaning an idol made of sand in Sanskrit), thus lending the area its current name – Walkeshwar. Tired and thirsty from long travel, Ram (or Lakshman) shot an arrow (Baan) into the ground and a freshwater tributary (supposedly) of the Ganga sprouted from below the surface. That is how this temple/sacred tank got its name – Banganga. There is also another version mentioned in Skanda Purana. Lord Parshuram, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, who is believed to have created the Konkan Coast, created the freshwater spring at Banganga by shooting his arrow into the ground.

Whichever legend you would like to believe or not believe, this sacred tank for Hindus according to me is the consequence of an act of faith. A faith that draws thousands of believers from all over the country.

Interestingly, the Banganga precinct is not just about the temples and houses of its long-time residents. It also has a Dhobhi Ghat and a Hindu graveyard (yes, you read it right) for Sanyasis located at the back side of the tank. So, you see, the Banganga precinct offers us assorted cleansing options, whether it’s your soul or soiled clothes.

Among all stories, one story, however, tugged at my heart. Within the precincts of Banganga also lie the ruins of the house where Pandit Vishnu Bhatkhande was born and lived. A scholar who many may not know was an Indian musicologist who wrote the first modern treatise on Hindustani classical music. Art that had been propagated for centuries mostly through oral traditions got codified thanks to him. The classic document “Hindustani Sangeet Paddhati” (in four volumes), written by him, forms today the standard text on Hindustani music, an indispensable starting point for any student of Hindustani Classical Music.

If born in Europe, a man of his stature would have had a museum. Sadly, his house lies in ruins.

Lastly, thanks to Ninad Phatarpekar, Khaki Tours for regaling us with stories and humor on our two-hour walk through the by-lanes and gullies of 800-year-old history.

The Curious Case of Chand Baori

Honestly, I didn't even know this place existed till a colleague shared a Wikipedia link. We virtually discovered this site as we were hunting for some sight-seeing options for an upcoming kick-off meeting in Jaipur.
I clicked on the link and there it was - Chand Baori, the beauty in its full splendor. A structure so Magnifique yet not known to many.

Chand Baori

To those uninitiated like me (and I know that would mean many) Chand Baori is a step-well tucked 95 km away from the city of Jaipur. It is quietly ensconced in the village of Abhaneri which used to be called as Abha Nagri (city of brightness) in the Dausa district of Rajasthan state in India.

As the pictures of Chand Baori steadily downloaded on my laptop screen,  I went into a state of wide-eyed stupor (if there is an expression like that). Like an excited kid, I jumped from one web link to another wanting to source more details about this hidden wonder. And by the end of this virtual journey, I was left dizzy looking at the geometrical patterns formed by 3500 steps in this deep well. If this place could look so intriguing in pictures, wonder how fascinating it would be in person.
And that's how my friends, Chand Baori became part of our itinerary under the ''Free Time'' scheduled on the third and last day of our stay in Jaipur.

Constructed in 800 AD, Chand Baori has 13 stories and 100 feet depth with perfect symmetrical narrow steps enveloped around it. It was built by the King named Chanda or Chandra of the Nikhumbha dynasty. As is apparent, the step-well was named after the King who built it. By the way, Baori or Baodi means well.

Handful of tourists walking around the well

One of the largest step-wells in the world, Chand Baori was built to conserve water and provide a respite from the intense heat. It was a community gathering place for locals as well as royals. The temperature is known to drop by 4-5 degrees as you walk to the bottom of the well. The steps surround the well on three sides while the fourth side has a set of pavilions built one atop another.

The well area has been cordoned off with a iron railing and one cannot go down its steps. Apparently, there was an accident and since then the entry to go down the steps has been restricted. Rightly so, as I cannot imagine anyone maneuvering through these steep narrow steps without feeling dizzy. Except of course for Bruce Wayne, alter ego of Bat Man who was shown to have used these steps to walk up in a scene in the Christopher Nolan film, The Dark Knight Rises.

The fourth side which had rooms for the royalty

The neatly stacked steps, the precise geometrical patterns, the sculptures surrounding the well, the depth, the architectural expertise, the mathematical genius and the logic behind building this well built a long time ago, in 800 AD. Truly mind-boggling!

How could such a jaw-dropping beauty as old as 1200 years, not be known to many? I wondered! Such a rare beauty much older than the Taj Mahal (by a cool 800 years) and Khajuraho temples (by 150 years) sadly lies obscure and hidden when it should be getting UNESCO recognition and busloads of visitors.
Visitors, it gets but largely foreigners and not many Indians.

The irony is, though the entrance says ASI (The Archaeological Survey of India) recognizes it as a heritage monument, there is no entrance fee charged to get in. Would you believe!
Also, to me it looked like the local villagers seem to double up as makeshift gate-keepers of this hidden gem.
To make things even more curious, there is not a single detailed informative board to explain the history of the monument.

It appears as though ASI has attempted to retrieve some of the intricate sculptures here but somehow I felt that this place deserved a much better treatment.

As a marketing professional, I could not help drawing parallels with the basic foundation of the Marketing Mix. I realized that though the Product (monument) is great what we clearly lack is the other 3 Ps. Promotion (and Packaging), Price (Value) and Place (Infrastructure/Amenities) in the 4 Ps of Marketing. And that's sadly true for many of the great historical structures and monuments around India.

Funnily, I also realized how much little information was available on the world wide web about this fascinating architectural marvel. Besides the raving blog posts by tourists who have visited this place earlier not much official information was forthcoming. Even the Rajasthan Tourism website does not say much about this hidden wonder except for a short paragraph and a wonderfully photo-shopped image of the Chand Baori. That's it!
Can't believe! Chk this out! http://tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/30/chand-baori

Restoration work of many sculptures done by ASI  lies in this long corridor near the well

Someone who is proud of her country's heritage, history and culture, (like millions of Indians) I wish Chand Baori and many such monuments of architectural and historical significance across India get much more attention and conservation efforts than they have received so far. And I am not even talking about the infrastructure and amenities available (or rather unavailable) at such wondrous places.
Truly, Chand Baori is one of the oldest and deepest step-wells in India, and it deserves to be on the tourist map and itinerary of anyone who visits Rajasthan and Jaipur. It needs to be talked about, written about, promoted and well-preserved. A monument as old as this with no entrance fee does not forebode well for its long, sustainable, and healthy existence.

In this case specifically, I could not fathom how this step-well has survived for so long in spite of the borderline ''step-motherly'' treatment (no pun intended).

And then it occurred to me.

Right next to Chand Baori is a 9th-10th-century temple dedicated to Harshat Mata, goddess of joy and happiness for the whole village. The only constant companion (it appears) who has provided good cheer and stood by this heritage monument for centuries has been this Goddess temple.

The part of me which believes in divine interventions and mystic connections seems to have finally unraveled the curious case of Chand Baori's long survival.

Or at least I would like to believe so! (Until logic prevails)

Harshat Mata Temple - Goddess of Joy and Happiness

(Final note - Chand Baori is just a case in point. I must say it stands off better than quite a few long-lost architectural and historical wonders strewn across India. There are many marvels which are hidden and crying for attention. This blog post is to draw attention to all those magical and historical monuments which have not got their due respect and recognition.)

A Visit to a Market and a Museum in Philadelphia

In January this year, I visited Philly (Philadelphia) for the 6th time in maybe as many years.

Like in the past, I was here not as a tourist but on work.

However, not all my trips have I been fortunate to stay in the heart of this grand city. As my official visits are typically in and around the suburbs, my coming to the city has been rather rare. Moreover, most of these trips are just about week-long; a short duration, given the number of hours one spends flying into the US and nursing the jet lag syndrome.

But this time, I got lucky! Though the stay was just little over a week, the meetings were scheduled in a hotel right on Broad Street which is like the city center and to add to that I had one whole weekend to myself.

Broad Street with City Hall right up front

One of the many murals in Philadelphia

I usually try to explore the city I visit during free time, either on foot or using local transport. And savor the unique experiences it has to offer. Some of the moments are captured in below photos.

For instance, on my last visit here, I had a chance to soak in a rather spooky experience. I did the tour of Eastern State Penitentiary which was once upon a time the most famous and expensive prison in the world. Within its high walls, it held many of America's notorious criminals such as Al Capone. The prison closed in 1969; however, it remains a U.S. National Historic Landmark. It is now open to the public as a museum with walking tours. It was a rather unnerving experience as I walked along the dark prison cells with the audio set perched on my ears. It felt as if the walls that have been mute spectators to many gruesome sights in the past were trying to whisper their long-held secrets in my ears. That's when I wished I was not alone on this tour. Walking in the alleys between the rows of eerie looking prison cells seemed like trudging along a long dark, never ending road in the middle of a sultry night. And then, the animated voice over and the mysterious background music pouring through the earphones accentuated even further the degree of heebie-jeebies I was already feeling inside my stomach. Boy that was indeed a unique experience!

So this time as well, like in the past, I was ready to explore yet another fascinating facet of this eclectic city. And who better to ask for recommendations than my friends Sarvesh and Priscilla who have been residents here for many years now.

Over a dinner and many conversations, the two places which were strongly suggested by them were the Reading Terminal Market and The Barnes Foundation Museum.

A Market and Museum?! (I said to myself)

Though I love going to places which locals would, I was not thinking of these two at all. More so an art museum!

I don’t have a single brush stroke worth wielding in the arsenal of my ten stubby fingers (unlike my sister). Also, the last drawing or painting I drew seemed like a lifetime ago. And though I appreciate art, I would rather see it in a live expression such as plays, musical performances or movies.

An art museum, well….yawn! Or so I thought.

And a farmer’s market. How different can a market be from any other I had already been to? It will have the same vegetables, fruits (may be bigger in size given that it was in the US), meats and desserts and the usual stuff.

However, these two places felt like seemingly inviting proposition as my thoughts for a few seconds sauntered back to the prison tour etched firmly in my mind.

I finally decided to explore these two innocuous options much recommended by the Kulkarnis!

That's how you see my friends, a Market and a Museum became part of my itinerary on this trip. And the explorer in me is glad that they happened!

Reading Terminal Market

As soon as I entered through one of the entrances of this huge expanse of an indoor market, the kaleidoscope of myriad sights and smells immediately activated my olfactory system into overdrive. 

The delectably bright colors of fruits and veggies, the rich aromas of steaming hot preparations, the varieties of meat, the delicious bakery items, the lip smacking snacks on display, the mouth-watering desserts, all put my sensory organs in a state of disarray. I was pulled in all directions and looked like a headless chicken moving in circles. A seemingly easy walk towards the left aisle would get thwarted by an overpowering delectable sight in the right aisle. And so this inner confusion as to what seemed more appetizing, eventually made me look a mendicant who had not seen food for days. The timing of my visit also made my situation a little weak. It was inching towards lunch time, I had been walking the past one hour, and my last meal was almost 4 hours earlier.

The local delicacies here were mostly available in meat form like the Philly Cheesesteak, but I could choose from a plethora of other exotic cuisines such as the Middle Eastern, Greek, Chinese, Asian, Mexican and yes, Indian too.

I finally settled on Mexican Enchiladas and a Greek Spanakopita with a glass of chilled fresh fruit juice to calm down the rumbling noise in my empty stomach which was now audible to the lady standing next to me. At least her expression said so!

After deftly wiping off the last few remnants on the plate, I was more than geared up to explore the other visual delights the market had to offer. Those that had escaped me so far in the thronging crowd at noon. As the lunch hour dissipated into an afternoon, the hungry flash mob of a few moments ago also evaporated into thin air. That’s when more shops and stalls which were earlier swamped with visitors and customers suddenly made themselves visible to me.

Located on the Arch Street and established in 1892, it is the nation’s oldest continuously operating farmers’ market. This year (2017) the Reading Terminal Market turns 125 years old, and it's still going strong.

The Reading (pronounced as Reding) Terminal Market houses more than 80 different merchants, three of which are descendants of original stand holders from when it opened more than 110 years ago. Right in the middle portion of the market are common places to sit with tables jostling for space. As you finally find a place to sit, one can be assured of elbow grazing as you eat, and more so during peak hours. Also, a variety of small sit-down eateries are scattered throughout the market.

There is so much to explore, that when you visit, be sure to allot plenty of time to stroll through this vast bazaar. You can browse not just fresh farm produce but a lot of interesting items ranging from hand-made imported crafts, American quilts, soul food, freshly cut flowers, cookbooks, kitchen knick-knacks and expertly prepared foods ranging from cannoli and soft pretzels to gourmet South Asian and organic vegetarian cuisine and more.

At the end of it, all I can say is that my visit to Reading Terminal Market was worth every moment as it satiated my desire to explore new sights, smells and gastronomical experiences like never before.

 

Barnes Foundation Museum

It was founded in 1922 by Albert Barnes, a scientist and an entrepreneur, who developed and marketed Argyrol, an antiseptic silver compound which prevented blindness in infants. Barnes then went into business for himself in 1908, and the A. C. Barnes Company flourished thanks to Argyrol's popularity. 

The fortune earned from this medicine’s global distribution allowed Barnes to realize his ideals and create the Barnes Foundation, an institution established “to promote the advancement of education and the appreciation of the fine arts.”

This building located on Benjamin Franklin Parkway in Center City Philadelphia was a good 15-20 minute walk from my hotel. It was 21st January, a day after Donald Trump was inaugurated as the President of United States of America and what a day it was!

All through the entire distance that I walked towards the Barnes Foundation building, there were myriad of women armed with banners, sign-holders, headbands and wearing T-Shirts with messages proclaiming women’s rights and also many denouncing the new President. There were women of different colors, young and old, many walking and some in wheelchairs, some shouting slogans while others were fiercely pumping their fists in the air, some taking selfies and rest were vehemently charging their way down the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. And it was down that road towards the Art Museum where the Marchers were to assemble. Apparently, as many as 20,000 people were to attend this Women’s March as part of a “sister march” to the Women’s March taking place the same day in Washington, DC.

So it was all happening right here in Philadelphia!

And here I was, a mute passer-by, observing the parade of intense emotions while walking on an altogether different mission. This ‘’sister’s’’ mission was to march towards her destination and reach on time so that she gets at least half a day to spend inside the Barnes Foundation museum. I had read on the website that the galleries being small, there was a limit to the number of people who can be in the Collection Gallery at any one time and entrance is staggered. Walk-up tickets are not always available. So you see my urgency was insurmountable. It was my only chance to visit the Museum on this trip as next day I was flying out back home. I was hoping that I was allowed in for the time slot I was aiming for.

Thankfully, this sister got lucky!

Mission accomplished. I entered the gallery at 2 pm. And now this ignoramus could spend the rest of the afternoon (3 hours before closing) peacefully soaking in the Art which she was not exposed to, yet. Also, try to understand why the art aficionados out there made such a big fuss over the collection by Albert Barnes.

A brochure gave me a perspective of the value of the foundation. The building which is a 12,000-square-foot gallery space holds one of the finest collections of impressionist, post-impressionist, and early modern paintings. More than 3,000 masterpieces, including 181 Renoirs, 69 Cézannes, 59 Matisses, 46 Picassos, 16 Modiglianis, and 7 Van Goghs, plus lots of other priceless art objects are present here.

And all this is estimated to be a whopping $25 billion! (as per the sources on the web)

My limited knowledge of arts made me Google the relevance and importance of ‘’Post-impressionist’’ era as this word kept popping up when I was reading about Barnes Foundation. It said that Post-Impressionist was the movement which started in the 1880s (right up to 1914) and which ushered in an era during which paintings crossed over from its traditional role as a window onto the world and instead became a window into the artist's mind and soul.

Rejecting interest in depicting the observed world, the artists in this era instead looked to their memories and emotions to connect with the viewer on a deeper level.

Now that’s something that fascinated me as each artist’s work would be unique given his own experiences, moods and perspectives he was brought up with.

"Nature is not only all that is visible to the eye...It also includes the inner pictures of the soul." Edvard Munch

However, of all the painters, what struck a chord with me was the story of Vincent van Gogh.

Vincent van Gogh, one of the most well-known post-impressionist artists, was born in Groot-Zundert, Holland in 1853. During his brief career, he did not experience much success; he sold only one painting, lived in poverty, malnourished and overworked.

Van Gogh's finest works were produced in less than three years in a technique that grew more and more focused on brushstroke, in symbolic and intense color, in surface tension, and the interplay of form and line.

In spite of his lack of success during his lifetime, Van Gogh’s legacy lives on having left a lasting impact on the world of art. Van Gogh is now viewed as one of the most influential artists who helped set the foundations for modern art.

As mentioned earlier, there are only seven paintings of van Gogh in the Museum. However, I could not help being moved by his story, and I ended up with a postcard collection book of all popular van Gogh paintings as a souvenir of this visit. Since the Museum does not allow visitors to take pictures (and rightly so), this memento will serve as my only recollection of this visit besides the many vivid images already stored in my memory.

I didn’t realize how the three hours at the museum just flew by as I moved from one gallery to another, trying to understand the work, compare the work of one artist with another. This novice was completely in awe of the work that was on display. It was like peeping into window of the souls of the artists.

Not that I understand much about the art of painting, however watching these art displays exposed me to yet another side of life I never knew existed. Indeed an exclusive experience that will stay with me forever!

Here are a couple of paintings I drew after I came back to India. These are copies from a collection of postcards (Van Gogh paintings) I had bought from the Barnes Museum.