A much overdue international vacation had been weighing on our minds. And then lo and behold! Guru, the planet of travel and exploration finally aligned in our astro charts and proclaimed, “Awasares, ho ja shuru!”. Thus, began our plans for an international vacation in 2024. Jokes aside, though many mini holidays in India had happened regularly, an international vacation fructified for us after a drought of eight long years. As if a divine intervention was much required.
While ‘A’ prefers to travel back in time (read, historical places), I love
traveling – period! Turkey was always on our radar along with a few other
destinations and when Khaki Tours announced their Turkey trip, we totally
“tripped”! We said, this is it! I firmly believe that one does not choose a
destination. The destination chooses you! So, among all the shortlisted
destinations, Turkey chose us!
The web has spawned reams of pages promoting Turkey as a popular holiday
destination. After all, it features in the top ten countries visited by
tourists globally. Also, many I know have ticked it off their bucket list long
before we landed in Istanbul. With so much already out there and experienced,
what could one possibly dish out on Turkey without making anyone feel stuffed like
one (pun intended). Hence, “Turkey, Thoda Hatke”, is my humble attempt to bring
to light the country’s less experienced side (or so I presume) that we enjoyed
and also that is scarcely meta-tagged. Whether or not you have been there and
done that, I am hoping this will interest you - Now or in the future!
This is a list of must-visit and must-experience items based on our memorable 12-day holiday with Khaki Tours. Quite frankly, an A-to-Z list would be foolish for me to attempt with just one Turkey visa stamp on my passport. However, this short list can be a good starting point.
MUST VISIT PLACES
A for Assos
I must say that the Temple of Athena resting high on top of a hill in Assos village is the best-kept secret of the calm Aegean Sea. A winding stone-cobbled path through a quaint Greek-looking village took the wind out of us as we huffed our way to the top. But believe me, it was worth every single mg of calorie that was lost in that little village. When we finally reached the summit, right below our feet stood the hallowed grounds belonging to the wisest. Aristotle is said to have taught his disciples here in 350 BC. What welcomed us were the remains of the doric columns standing stoically for over two thousand years. If only they could talk!
On the other hand, the feisty winds on the hilltop were
not so welcoming. They were literally blowing us away and throwing us off the
ground as if to say, “Shoo, get going, you don’t belong here!”.
As we maneuvered the heckling winds, the sight of the serene expanse of
turquoise blue Aegean Sea down below calmed our nerves instantly. Those
breathtaking views will remain etched in my memories. Not on the typical
tourist map, the ancient ruins dated 6th century BC are a must-visit if passing
through Behramkale. Only on our way down, did we grasp the true charm of the
Assos village that we missed while catching our breath on the way up. Many
small handicraft shops selling delicate crochet work, dried herbs and spices
and souvenirs dotted the path. Most run by old frail women of Assos village,
the shops, unfortunately, wore a deserted look (possibly it was off-season).
Stooped with age, they appeared to carry the weight of the village’s economy on
their dainty backs.
Tip: What we
got from the shops were coarsely cut large chunks of olive oil soaps that are
popular even among the locals. Some of us also bought local handmade trinkets
and bracelets as souvenirs.
Though
a popular inclusion in the itinerary of every tourist to Istanbul, I am
including this beauty here only to reinforce the fact that this experience should not be missed for anything! A magical place, a stunning splendor, an
architecture marvel, a historic gem, and a photographer’s delight all rolled
into one. Along with the Hagia (Aya) Sofia, Emperor Justinian I from the
Byzantine era is credited for this engineering feat built in the 6th century
during his reign. The grandness and aura of this place are overwhelming. I
could not believe my ears when the guide remarked that this magnificent system
was created 1500 years ago. The cistern that could store 80,000 cubic meters of
water was built to provide water to the entire city of Istanbul, which was then
known as Constantinople. The cistern is supported by 336 columns each one
unique though they appear similar in height. Each of these columns was salvaged
from ruined buildings and is thought to have been brought from various parts of
the Byzantine Empire. The cistern was forgotten for centuries and was
rediscovered by chance in the 16th century when a Dutch traveler noticed
locals retrieving water from a hole in their basement floor.
Tip: As you
walk down the steps to enter the cistern, you will be engulfed with humidity
and warmth. Some may find the ambiance spooky too! But don’t be spooked! In
fact, the atmosphere will grow on you, and at the end, you will feel sad that
the tour is over.
By the way, the movie “Inferno” was shot here for its climax scene.
Situated near the white
travertine pools of Pamukkale, tourists are known to make a beeline to bathe in
“Queen Bee’s Antique pool”. You read it right! Legend says this thermal pool
was once used by Egyptian Queen Cleopatra for a dip to relax herself from the
tiredness of long travel.
Whether it is
for Dawa or Queen’s Dua we don’t know but as expected the pool had in it many Deewanas
(including yours truly). This unique and magnificent location is apparently fed
by the same hot springs that are found in the Hierapolis region. As we took a
dip and swam in the medicinal waters, we could not help but notice the rising
glow on our faces (or so I think). We don’t know if the radiance was the result
of our body experiencing the warmth of thermal springs in the cool climes or
the surreal joy of knowing that the famous beauty queen once bathed in the same
waters centuries ago or just a psychosomatic effect. Whatever it was, for this
water baby, soaking in these historical mineral waters was a blissful
experience. Today, this place is run like a professional spa that allows you to
enjoy these antique therapeutic waters with all modern facilities.
Tip: Be careful while wading through the pool. Walking on the floor bed of the pool your feet will meet stones and pebbles of all shapes and sizes settled at the bottom. Be ready to be surprised!
For safety purposes, deeper sides are clearly demarcated to warn the non-swimmers.
G for Gallipoli
Visiting this
place literally gave me goosebumps and filled me with pride, especially after
knowing the story of the forgotten Indian soldiers of Gallipoli.
Battle of Gallipoli is that infamous military event that resulted in the
downfall of Winston Churchill and also the emergence of the Turkish military
hero, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.
The Battle of Gallipoli also called the Dardanelles Campaign (1915-16) was an
unsuccessful attempt by the Allied Powers to control the sea route from Europe
to Russia during World War I.
Along with British troops, there were soldiers from Australia, New Zealand,
Ireland, France including India. Considered to be one of the bloodiest battles
of World War I it witnessed the death of tens of thousands of soldiers on both
sides. There has been an ANZAC memorial built on the Gallipoli peninsula to pay
respects to the soldiers from Australia and NZ who laid down their lives but
for the longest time, the contribution of Indian soldiers was completely
forgotten or erased. At least 1500 Indian soldiers who fought the battle lost
their lives along with the ANZACs. Though today the proof of their sacrifice
and bravery is carved into the Helles war memorial, their contribution is often
conspicuously absent from many history books.
Additionally,
we also visited the ANZAC Cove cemetery located on a beach which is also a picturesque
location. There are around 252 Commonwealth servicemen of the First World War
buried or commemorated in this cemetery including the names of three Indian Muslim
soldiers as well.
Tip: As you
walk along the periphery of the Helles War Memorial do try to read the names of
the soldiers etched on the side walls. You will stumble on the names of Indian
soldiers belonging to the Gorkha and Punjab regiments commemorated for
posterity. An unlikely place to feel a sense of national pride as you read the
Indian soldier’s names in a foreign land.
Also, don’t miss the famous heart-rending and inspiring words attributed to Mustafa Kemal Ataturk etched on a wall at Gallipoli Peninsula - “Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives ... You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore, rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours ... You, the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.”
I for Ilhara Valley
No
one can resist the lure of a trek through the magical Ilhara Valley. Even the
laziest can give in to its surreal beauty. It was an enchanting five-kilometer
leisurely walk passing through the woods with lovely greens, gurgling rivulets,
cooing birds, and fleeting butterflies as a company. This is one trek you will
wish never ends as walking through the peaceful Ilhara Valley is akin to going
on a pilgrimage or a soulful journey.
The valley is a
deep river canyon in Western Cappadocia with lush vegetation, cave churches,
and towering cliff faces, a visual experience one should not miss.
It is so pristine and picturesque that at the end, one of our friends in the
group jokingly remarked that Ilhara Valley cannot qualify as a “trek” for us
Indians. After all, we could not find a single gutkha packet or empty rum
bottle lying around anywhere on our walk.
K for Kaymakli Cave City
Cappadocia’s
landscape is generous in every sense. It has a lot to offer for tourists. Not
surprisingly, Cappadocia is invariably packaged with Istanbul in travel
itineraries though it is a flight away. Not just its length and breadth but it
offers you thrilling heights of excitement with the hot air balloon ride and
gorgeous Goreme Open Air Museum on one end and at the other end breath-taking
depths of cave cities that are almost 80 meters deep - that’s like buildings
with 20 floors below the earth’s surface.
Kaymakli
Underground City was the only place I was anxious to visit much before the
holiday travel began. Since I have claustrophobia, crawling through narrow
tunnels is not my idea of fun. However, once the guide shared with the group
that the underground cave city has options to exit the cave if one feels
anxious and unsettled, I felt a bit relieved. I changed my mind and bravely decided
to give it a go. And boy, am I glad I went for it. It was an experience I will
not forget easily.
Built at eight levels below the ground level, the tour is available only till
level four for tourists. Believe me, I had it by level two itself. Not just me
but all others in the group too. So, you can imagine! Crawling on bended knees,
through confined tunnels and low ceilings, the cave city carved out of soft
volcanic rock is overwhelming. The Phrygians, a civilization that flourished in
central Anatolia from 1200-700 BC, are credited with building the Kaymakli
Underground City. Later the Christians used it as a haven to hide and protect
themselves from Romans (Pagans) in 3 CE and later from Arabs in 7-8 CE to avoid
persecution. Besides human life, the city was also used to safeguard cattle and
stockpile food and water supplies. At level one it would have the stables,
level two was usually the place of worship or Church, at level three there were
storage spaces and kitchens and at level four they would keep huge earthenware
jars and abundant storage places. At any given time, at least 3500 people used
to live in Kaymakli underground city. It is a mind-blowing experience that
should not be missed while in Cappadocia! Even if you have claustrophobia (like
me).
Tip: As we were exiting the cave city, there were serpentine queues of tourists
wanting to get in at peak time. Thank God, the folks at Khaki Tours pre-empted
this scenario and hence scheduled our visit early in the day and not during
peak time. Imagine a traffic jam of people in those narrow spaces. I just
shudder to think about it!
S for Streets of Karakoy, Istiklal Avenue, Nisantasi
The
best way to explore Istanbul is on foot! There is so much going on the streets
of Istanbul that you can spend an entire day from brunch to dinner and yet
there would be more to discover. Full of historical and cultural experiences,
they have a charming beauty and elegance that’s unique to the city. On one end
you will find a historic heritage tram trudging along and on the other, you
will find high fashion labels in exclusive galleries. For those who enjoy a
good evening/nightlife, you will find the best bars in Istanbul and also many
beautiful restaurants and cafes, hosting many different Turkish food or other
cuisines. Interestingly, each street has its own charm and personality distinct
from the other. You cannot just visit one. You have to visit all the streets to
get a “taste” of what Istanbul has to offer. Karakoy, Istiklal Avenue, and
Nisantasi are just a few streets we visited. There are many more in Istanbul
that are worth visiting.
MUST EAT/DRINK/EXPERIENCE
A for Ayran
If you are a Chhaas or
butter milk person then you will love Ayran! This drink makes for a perfect
healthy accompaniment during meals. With a hint of salt already added to it,
you will enjoy this drink whether it is homemade or a branded off-the-shelf product.
We loved both versions. Make sure you include this in your meals.
Tip: If flying Turkish Airlines, ask the air hostess if it is part of the
drink’s menu. If yes, go grab it before they run out of it! If you are late in
asking, highly probable the air hostess will come back and say, “Sorry, Ay ran
out of it!”.
C for Corba
Apparently,
soups have held an important place in traditional Turkish cuisine for
centuries. The Turkish word for soup, çorba, is derived from the Persian šurbâ,
a combination of the two words’ salty’ and ‘love’. The Turkish Red Lentil soup
known as Mercimek Çorbası locally, is the most common “Corba” found in
restaurant menus. Pronounced as Chorba, it is quite similar to the word Shorba
we use for the soups in Mughlai cuisine. The red lentil soup not only works as
a great comfort food but is satisfying and a nutritious appetizer. It cleverly
combines rudimentary veggies like onion, carrots, and potatoes with red lentils
and swirls up a homey surprise that tastes like comfort food. Akin to our very
own Varan Bhaat (lentil rice) drizzled with homemade tup (ghee)!
Tip: As a vegetarian, it was my go-to soup for many of my meals and sometimes
at breakfast too (with bread and Turkish string cheese).
D for Dondurma
Ice cream in
Turkey is Dondurma. “No one can eat just one!”, is a phrase coined probably to
describe the irresistible Dondurma. Richer, milkier, and with a lip-smacking taste,
Turkish Dondurma can test the self-control of the most strong-willed person.
One can find
Dondurma, all across the country sold at baklava shops, street vendors, and
restaurants as if they are testing your willpower. It
is available in a variety of flavors. But my favorite one remained the
Pistachio. Even the Wall’s ice cream is so much more creamy and tastier here than
what we get in India. [Try the Blue Berries Wall’s ice cream – it is enticing!]
And then there
is Maras Dondurma, an ice cream with a unique taste and texture that needs
to be acquired. But I will also add that you must try it at least once while you are here. This traditional Turkish ice cream is sweet, creamy, stretchy,
and slightly chewy at the same time. Apparently, the chewiness of the ice cream
comes from the goat’s milk and an ingredient called salep (starchy root of wild
orchids endemic to the region).
Tip: You will
get better quality Dondurma from outlets viz. Gulluoglu (Karakoy) and Mado (chain). Gulluoglu is also known for the best Baclavas in Istanbul.
Avoid the fellows in traditional outfits banging their ladles aggressively on
the metal pots luring you to make a fool out of you. Unless you just want to
get teased and taunted for a scoop of Turkish Ice cream that’s sub-par in taste
and quality.
G for
Gozleme
A
sure-fire recipe to stop your craving for Indian food (if at all) while in
Turkey. Have the Gozleme! The crispy, golden Turkish flatbreads are stuffed
with all sorts of tasty fillings that look and taste like our warm flaky
buttery parathas. Just like parathas come in various fillings, these too have
multiple options. You can choose from Spinach and Feta, Potato and Feta, or
spiced red meat. Whichever way you prefer them, I am sure, your longing for
Indian food will quickly disappear like the fresh servings of hot Gozlemes will
vanish from your plate.
Tip:
The one with yellow cheese (Kaseri) goes well with soups and gives
you a dal paratha-like taste.
K for Kumpir
Kumpir is to
the streets of Turkey like Vada Pav is to the streets of Mumbai. As simple as
that. One of the most popular streetside food in Turkey it can be served with a variety of toppings and combinations. It is commonly sold by street vendors and
small shops and its popularity lies in its rich flavors and the ability to be
customized.
For this dish, huge potatoes are baked in the oven, split open, and the fluffy
flesh of the jacket potato is mixed with butter, salt, and a Turkish cheese
similar to mozzarella. The potato is then loaded with an array of toppings that
include olives, pickles, sweetcorn, Russian salad, pickled cabbage, beets,
mushrooms, and coleslaw. You can have the non-vegetarian version by adding
sausages too.
Turkish Kumpir
is a versatile dish originally from former Yugoslavia. But today the Turks have
made it uniquely their own by introducing an array of diverse fillings and
toppings.
“Yeh nahi khaya to kya khaya!” Truly, we stuffed ourselves with Kumpir
on many occasions, and that probably helped us gain back all the weight we had
lost by walking the many streets of Istanbul.
With that, we come to the end of “Turkey Thoda Hatke”, a travelogue inspired by the “Turkey Unveiled” tour meticulously organized by the Khaki Team. They truly know how to Keep Heritage Alive and Kicking Internationally too!
In addition to the above, there is so much more that we experienced.
The historic
Ephesus. The fascinating Fairy Chimneys. The iconic Mevlana Museum of Rumi. The
travertines of Pamukkale. The heady hot air balloon ride. Remarkable
Hierapolis, Quietly Brilliant House of Virgin Mary. Buzzing alleys of Grand
Bazaar and Egyptian Bazaar, Mulla Nasruddin’s tomb, World-famous duo Hagia
Sofia and the Blue Mosque. The majestic Dolmabahce Palace and more. But quite
frankly, they have all been written about generously. “Turkey Thoda Hatke” is a
tribute to those interesting experiences and places that usually don’t get
talked about as much as they deserve.
Thanks to Khaki Tours, A and I have created many beautiful memories of Turkey
and more importantly with like-minded travellers who have become our friends
for life!
Quick Bonus Tips:
Best time to visit: April to June and Sept/Oct as the crowds are
less and weather is also suitable
Currency: The Euro is largely accepted. However, carry a few Liras as
they may be required for using loos (mostly clean) in public places or local
street shopping. Usually, 5 to 10 Liras are charged per person for using the
public loos.
Conversion: Get the foreign currency in exchange shops located in public
or busy marketplaces if possible. For instance, we got the best rate in the
Grand Bazaar area in Istanbul.
Airlines: Don’t delay booking your flight tickets once the destination
is decided. Book at least two months in advance to get good prices. They can
easily double as you get closer to the travel date. Preferably book Turkish
Airlines (and not Indigo) if you have a choice.
Street shopping: If you like something buy it but only after healthy
negotiation. The street shops are open to bargaining. Also, quite used to it.
Tour operator: If you love history, having new experiences, experimenting
with local cuisine, staying in comfortable and city center hotels, listening to
stories of the place from a trusted guide, and traveling with like-minded travelers,
look no further than Khaki Tours. They really ensure you have a good time!
Some more photos of our Turkey holiday that made it special!
Hotel at Kusadasi with a view like this!
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