Sunday, December 10, 2017

The Curious Case of Chand Baori

Honestly, I didn't even know this place existed till a colleague shared a Wikipedia link. We virtually discovered this site as we were hunting for some sight-seeing options for an upcoming kick-off meeting in Jaipur.
I clicked on the link and there it was - Chand Baori, the beauty in its full splendor. A structure so Magnifique yet not known to many.

Chand Baori
To those uninitiated like me (and I know that would mean many) Chand Baori is a step-well tucked 95 km away from the city of Jaipur. It is quietly ensconced in the village of Abhaneri which used to be called as Abha Nagri (city of brightness) in the Dausa district of Rajasthan state in India.

As the pictures of Chand Baori steadily downloaded on my laptop screen,  I went into a state of wide-eyed stupor (if there is an expression like that). Like an excited kid, I jumped from one web link to another wanting to source more details about this hidden wonder. And by the end of this virtual journey, I was left dizzy looking at the geometrical patterns formed by 3500 steps in this deep well. If this place could look so intriguing in pictures, wonder how fascinating it would be in person.
And that's how my friends, Chand Baori became part of our itinerary under the ''Free Time'' scheduled on the third and last day of our stay in Jaipur.

Constructed in 800 AD, Chand Baori has 13 stories and 100 feet depth with perfect symmetrical narrow steps enveloped around it. It was built by the King named Chanda or Chandra of the Nikhumbha dynasty. As is apparent, the step-well was named after the King who built it. By the way, Baori or Baodi means well.
Handful of tourists walking around the well

One of the largest step-wells in the world, Chand Baori was built to conserve water and provide a respite from the intense heat. It was a community gathering place for locals as well as royals. The temperature is known to drop by 4-5 degrees as you walk to the bottom of the well. The steps surround the well on three sides while the fourth side has a set of pavilions built one atop another.

The well area has been cordoned off with a iron railing and one cannot go down its steps. Apparently, there was an accident and since then the entry to go down the steps has been restricted. Rightly so, as I cannot imagine anyone maneuvering through these steep narrow steps without feeling dizzy. Except of course for Bruce Wayne, alter ego of Bat Man who was shown to have used these steps to walk up in a scene in the Christopher Nolan film, The Dark Knight Rises.

The fourth side which had rooms for the royalty

The neatly stacked steps, the precise geometrical patterns, the sculptures surrounding the well, the depth, the architectural expertise, the mathematical genius and the logic behind building this well built a long time ago, in 800 AD. Truly mind-boggling!

How could such a jaw-dropping beauty as old as 1200 years, not be known to many? I wondered! Such a rare beauty much older than the Taj Mahal (by a cool 800 years) and Khajuraho temples (by 150 years) sadly lies obscure and hidden when it should be getting UNESCO recognition and busloads of visitors.
Visitors, it gets but largely foreigners and not many Indians.


The irony is, though the entrance says ASI (The Archaeological Survey of India) recognizes it as a heritage monument, there is no entrance fee charged to get in. Would you believe!
Also, to me it looked like the local villagers seem to double up as makeshift gate-keepers of this hidden gem.
To make things even more curious, there is not a single detailed informative board to explain the history of the monument.

It appears as though ASI has attempted to retrieve some of the intricate sculptures here but somehow I felt that this place deserved a much better treatment.

As a marketing professional, I could not help drawing parallels with the basic foundation of the Marketing Mix. I realized that though the Product (monument) is great what we clearly lack is the other 3 Ps. Promotion (and Packaging), Price (Value) and Place (Infrastructure/Amenities) in the 4 Ps of Marketing. And that's sadly true for many of the great historical structures and monuments around India.


Funnily, I also realized how much little information was available on the world wide web about this fascinating architectural marvel. Besides the raving blog posts by tourists who have visited this place earlier not much official information was forthcoming. Even the Rajasthan Tourism website does not say much about this hidden wonder except for a short paragraph and a wonderfully photo-shopped image of the Chand Baori. That's it!
Can't believe! Chk this out! http://tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/30/chand-baori

Restoration work of many sculptures done by ASI  lies in this long corridor near the well

Someone who is proud of her country's heritage, history and culture, (like millions of Indians) I wish Chand Baori and many such monuments of architectural and historical significance across India get much more attention and conservation efforts than they have received so far. And I am not even talking about the infrastructure and amenities available (or rather unavailable) at such wondrous places.
Truly, Chand Baori is one of the oldest and deepest step-wells in India, and it deserves to be on the tourist map and itinerary of anyone who visits Rajasthan and Jaipur. It needs to be talked about, written about, promoted and well-preserved. A monument as old as this with no entrance fee does not forebode well for its long, sustainable, and healthy existence.

In this case specifically, I could not fathom how this step-well has survived for so long in spite of the borderline ''step-motherly'' treatment (no pun intended).

And then it occurred to me.

Right next to Chand Baori is a 9th-10th-century temple dedicated to Harshat Mata, goddess of joy and happiness for the whole village. The only constant companion (it appears) who has provided good cheer and stood by this heritage monument for centuries has been this Goddess temple.

The part of me which believes in divine interventions and mystic connections seems to have finally unraveled the curious case of Chand Baori's long survival.

Or at least I would like to believe so! (Until logic prevails)
Harshat Mata Temple - Goddess of Joy and Happiness


(Final note - Chand Baori is just a case in point. I must say it stands off better than quite a few long-lost architectural and historical wonders strewn across India. There are many marvels which are hidden and crying for attention. This blog post is to draw attention to all those magical and historical monuments which have not got their due respect and recognition.)